Smoker’s lines are fine vertical lines on the upper, and sometimes lower, lip that radiate from the lip border. Despite the name, they affect non-smokers too: repeated pursing of the lips, sun damage, loss of collagen and volume with age, and genetics all contribute. Mild lines can be softened with skincare, anti-wrinkle injections or carefully placed filler, while deeper changes linked to a long upper lip may benefit from a lip lift.
What are smoker’s lines?
Also called perioral lines, lipstick lines or barcode lines, these creases run upwards from the edge of the upper lip and downwards from the lower lip. At first they appear only when the lips are pursed, for example when drinking through a straw. Over time, as the skin loses elasticity, they become visible at rest. Lipstick may ‘bleed’ into them, which is often the first thing people notice.
Why they develop
- Repeated muscle movement: the ring of muscle around the mouth (orbicularis oris) contracts thousands of times a day when talking, eating, drinking and pursing.
- Smoking: the pursing action and the effect of smoke on collagen and blood supply make lines appear earlier and deeper.
- Sun exposure: ultraviolet light breaks down collagen and elastin in the thin skin above the lip.
- Ageing: collagen production slows, the skin thins, and the lip loses volume and support.
- Genetics and skin type: fair or thin skin tends to show lines sooner.
- Dental changes: loss of teeth or bone reduces support behind the lips.
Using straws or water bottles frequently and habitual lip pursing may also contribute.
Prevention
Stopping smoking and vaping is the single most helpful step, benefitting skin and general health. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen and lip balm with sun protection every day, including in winter. A good skincare routine with a moisturiser and, if tolerated, a retinol-containing product can support skin quality over time. Reducing straw use and staying well hydrated are simple habits that may help.
Anti-wrinkle injections and filler
Tiny doses of anti-wrinkle injections can relax the muscle around the mouth, softening lines that form with movement. The dose must be very small, because too much can affect speech, drinking and the smile, and results last a few months. Soft, fine dermal filler can be placed directly into individual lines or along the lip border to support the skin, and a small amount of volume in the lip itself can reduce the pull that creates creases. Risks include lumps, bruising, swelling and, rarely, blockage of a blood vessel, so treatment should be given by a trained medical practitioner. At CLNQ, injectable treatments are provided by CLNQ’s non-surgical doctors rather than by Mr Nassab.
Can surgery help?
Surgery does not directly remove fine lines in the skin. However, when the upper lip has lengthened and rolled inwards, the skin above the lip can look crinkled and ‘pleated’. A lip lift shortens the upper lip and turns the vermilion outwards, which can reduce the surface area of creased skin and improve the overall look of the mouth area. It is not a treatment for lines alone, and some people will still benefit from injectables afterwards. Mr Nassab will be clear about what surgery can and cannot achieve for your particular lines.
When to see a GP
Fine lines are harmless, but check with your GP if you notice a patch of rough, scaly or crusted skin on the lip that does not heal, a sore that persists beyond three weeks, or a lump or area that bleeds easily. These can be signs of sun damage or skin cancer and need prompt assessment.
Planning treatment
Most people see the best improvement from a combination of prevention, skin care and carefully judged treatment rather than a single procedure. At a surgical consultation, Mr Nassab will assess the depth of the lines, lip length and volume, and skin quality, and advise whether a lip lift could help. A lip lift costs from £4,000 and the £150 consultation is charged separately. Injectable treatments are assessed and priced by CLNQ’s non-surgical doctors. Treatments are for adults aged 18 and over.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do non-smokers get smoker’s lines?
Yes. Sun damage, ageing, genetics and repeated lip movement cause these lines in many people who have never smoked.
Can smoker’s lines be reversed?
They can often be softened, particularly when treated early, but deep, long-standing lines are difficult to remove completely.
Is filler or anti-wrinkle injection better for lip lines?
They work differently. Injections relax the muscle; filler supports the skin. Many people benefit from a combination.
Does a lip lift get rid of smoker’s lines?
Not directly, but by shortening a long upper lip it can reduce creased skin and improve the area overall.
Will stopping smoking help?
Yes. It slows further damage to the skin and supports healing if you have treatment.
